Where
terroir and vintage triumph over just about everything, and the battle between two feuding
banks remains very much alive- like the war of the Capulets and Montagues in
Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet. The wine-lover’s paradise that is Bordeaux
finds itself in southwestern France in the Gironde department on the Garonne
River. Internationally noted for some of the most sought after and expensive
wines in the world, Bordeaux also produces a very high quantity of everyday
value wines.
One of
the most distinguishable characteristics of the wines of Bordeaux is that they
are all blends. This allows the Chateau to produce the best wine for each vintage,
taking into consideration the conditions for each varietal during harvest. By
the laws that govern California winemaking, there must be 75% of said varietal
in order to apply its name, such as “Cabernet Sauvignon” or “Merlot,” on the
label. In Bordeaux, it is about the location of each Chateau, as the labels
express the vineyard’s appellation with highest importance, and often the
components of the blend are unmentioned.
The
ongoing battle of Left Bank vs. Right Bank has become a conflict of which grape
reigns as King. The Left Bank most often boasts wines predominately based of Cabernet
Sauvignon, whereas the Right Bank has crowned Merlot as King. Left Bank has the
famous wines of the Medoc, ascending much masculinity and firmness, and the
Right containing the esteemed elegant wines of St. Emilion and tiny Pomerol, offering femininity and remarkable texture.
The
reputation of the prestigious Left Bank wines and its monopoly of 1st
growths had always swayed me to believe that its wines must be superior.
However, it was during my journey through Bordeaux that I realized the beauty
and elegance in the wines of St. Emilion. This charming village dazzled me
first with its beauty, then with its dining, and most importantly its luscious
fruit. Built by the Romans, the stone walls surround many of the winding roads,
and centuries old Chateaux line the hectares of plantings.
Our
journey brought us to France to attend the internationally acclaimed “Vinexpo,”
the world’s largest wine tasting of the year. Here hundreds of thousands of
people in all facets of the industry combine for a few days of tastings,
meetings, discussions and panels. Winemakers and importers try to get exposure
and acquire new clients, and businesses like ours at Wine World are sifting
through thousands of wines trying to find the highest quality at the best
values for our market. This is unlike any exhibition I’ve ever been to, as the
booths are far from mundane with no standard black linens in sight. In fact,
each booth averages about $20,000, and some over $100,000 in cost for
production. For example, Jean Claude Boisset’s booth had 6 rooms; a red
velvet room with all red velvet furniture, a glass room with dazzling
chandeliers, a private chef executing food for visitors, and even an outside
lounge where guests could catch a glimpse of sunshine as they sip his JCB
sparkling rosé.
After hours
spent at Vinexpo evaluating potential wines and passing around the spittoons,
we filled the rest of our days with appointments and tastings at several
different Chateaux.
Chateau Lynch Bages-
Appellation: Pauillac,
Left Bank/ Classification:
Grand Cru Classe
Important
to note: We tasted the 2007 vintage of Lynch Bages, which was overall
considered a below average vintage for Bordeaux. Their 2007 was drinking
beautifully, with firm yet refined tannins, evolved and luscious fruit.
Bordeaux Chateaux are individually making superior wines outside of what is dictated
by the overall vintage. Consumers are now starting to focus on the quality of
production and style of each Chateau, and their ability to still produce fine
wine even during what may be considered an average vintage.
Chateau Mouton Rothschild-
Appellation: Pauillac, Left Bank/ Classification: Premier Cru Classe (Classified First
Growth)
Important
to note: As a first growth, it was noticeable from the tour that this
Chateau receives a lot of visitors, and their winery was equipped with
impressive up-to-date technology. We tasted their 2014 which will be released
in 2017. Although premature, one could see this wine has started developing its
elegance and texture, with perfectly ripe and supple fruit. Tasting “en primeur,”
or before the wine is bottled/released, requires a different tasting skillset,
as the wines are not yet developed and are strikingly youthful.
Chateau Cos d’Estournel-
Appellation:
Saint Estephe, Left Bank/ Classification: Grand Cru
Important
to note: This dynamic Chateau has an interesting cultural identity as its
founder was inspired through his travels to India and imprinted many Indian
furnishings and touches on this property. “Cos” is located between Pauillac and
Saint Estephe, separated by Chateau Lafite. We tasted the Cos d’Estournel 2008,
which demonstrated the intersection of masculinity and elegance. We also tasted
the Cos d’Estournel Blanc 2012, consisting of lychees and exotic fruit with
tremendous minerality.
Chateau Pontet Canet-
Appellation: Pauillac, Left Bank/ Classification:
Grand Cru Classe
Important
to note: Pontet Canet hit another new stride in 2010 when they scored their
second 100pt score two vintages in a row. Ranked as a Fifth Growth, Pontet
Canet is producing wine as high of quality as the Super Seconds, and in some vintages the First Growths. They have
recently just aligned their vineyard practices with biodynamic and organic farming.
Officially certified, they are proud to claim using no pesticides, no machines,
and only manual labor during harvest. We caught a glimpse of their estate’s horses
trotting through the vineyards to massage their soils.
Chateau Clinet-
Appellation:
Pomerol, Right Bank/ Classification: No Classification System in Pomerol
Important
to note: Chateau Clinet is one of the most prestigious wines of the Pomerol
appellation. We had the pleasure to meet CEO Ronan Laborde, who has not only
been an innovator at Chateau Clinet, but is pioneering a new segment of Pomerol’s
wine industry. Starting with the small production of Chateau Clinet, the Merlot
based wine leans on Cabernet Sauvignon as a higher percentage in its blend than
Cabernet Franc, uncommon for Pomerol. Also uncommon, they incorporate barrels
for aging using oak sourced outside of France. Ronan has also developed a second
wine which is vinified and bottled eye distance from their flagship property
which has tremendous quality at a fraction of the price: Ronan by Clinet. Here
he sources 100% Merlot fruit from only a few selected quality producers, and
uses only stainless steel- making this wine completely approachable and ready to
drink now.
Chateau Barde Haut-
Appellation: Saint
Emilion, Right Bank/ Classification:
Grand Cru
Important
to note: A good friend of Wine World, vineyard owner Helene Garcin welcomed
us to her fabulous Barde Haut property which sparkled with sleek equipment and
luxury style. She took our palates on a tour as she poured through several of
her different properties 2004 vintages. Chateau Barde Haut of Saint Emilion,
Chateau Haut Bergey of Pessac Leognan, and Chateau Clos l’Eglise of Pomerol
(neighbors with Chateau Clinet and Eglise Clinet). One component that she and
husband and winemaker Patrice’s properties share, is the consistent quality of
fruit. Patrice says, “Wine is made from grapes, and should taste like fruit!”
She also allowed us to tour her newest property, Chateau Poesia, which is a work in
progress but already producing impressive quality wine. “This might be my 100pt
wine,” says Patrice.
Thank you Amanda. This is so well written, interesting and informative. So proud of you.
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